Femnet e.V.

A non-official (or “shadow”) proposal for an ambitious and integrated EU strategy in support of fair and sustainable textile, garments, leather and footwear (TGLF) value chains. This document is a collaborative effort of a coalition of a diverse set of civil society organizations.

We urge the European Commission, members of the European Parliament, governments of EU Member States in the Council and other stakeholders to work towards such a strategy.

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Germany is one of the world’s largest importers and exporters of garments. German fashion brands and retailers are the primary buyers of fashion items from Ukraine and Bulgaria, as well as the second most important buyers from Croatia and Serbia. For this study, workers from different suppliers of German brands and retailers in Ukraine, Serbia, Croatia and Bulgaria were interviewed.

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It seems to be widely presumed that working conditions and wages in European fashion production are better than in Asia. The Clean Clothes Campaign has already questioned this notion in its 2014 report Stitched up where we found out that the gap between the minimum and actual wages of workers and an estimated minimum living wage tends to be bigger in Europe than in Asia. In Europe-East/South it is found a comparatively low level of unionization in general and in particular in the garment industry.

This paper summarizes and concludes discussions that the CCC’s European Production Focus Group (Europe-East/South Group) has had in numerous meetings and calls since 2014. The intention has been to find a methodology for a cross-border base living wage benchmark for European garment production countries.

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Since the start of the Covid-19 pandemic, garment workers around the world have been left unpaid or underpaid, causing a wage gap between what they received and what they are owed. This report from August 2020 estimates for seven countries the wage losses that workers have suffered and urges brands, retailers and e-tailers to commit to a wage assurance to make sure workers are made whole.

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Für die Bekleidungsindustrie wird es nach der Pandemie keine Rückkehr zum «Courant normal» geben. Rücksichtslosigkeit und Gewinnstreben bis auf den Höhepunkt der Pandemie haben die Lieferketten bersten lassen und Vertrauen, Existenzgrundlagen und Leben zerstört. Gerechtigkeit und Nachhaltigkeit sind die Fäden, aus denen die Mode der Zukunft gewoben werden muss.

Der Artikel aus dem Public Eye Magazin (Juni 2020) liefert einen Gesamtüberblick über die Auswirkungen der Corona Pandemie auf die Textil- und Bekleidungsbranche. Vom Lockdown in den Produktionsländern ausgehend bis hin zum Konsumverhalten werden die Folgen der Corona Pandemie für Mode- und Bekleidungsunternehmen und insbesondere deren Lieferkette aufgezeigt. Darüber hinaus werden Handlungsempfehlungen für einen Paradigmenwechsel in der Branche gegeben.

Public Eye Magazin Nr. 24; „Die Bankrotterklärung des Mode-Kapitalismus“; S. 31 – 36

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