Femnet e.V.

This report highlights a major step backwards by global fashion brands and their suppliers in ensuring the fundamental and facilitating rights of freedom of association and collective bargaining during the COVID-19 pandemic. 

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In this letter the initiatives recommend three important aspects for implementing Due Dilligence at EU-level:

1. Performing Human Rights and Environmental Due Diligence should be risk based.
2. Due diligence does not shift responsibility: companies should review their own purchasing practices
3. Due diligence legislation must provide certainty and clarity (coherent standards)

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While research indicates that the sourcing strategies of buyers are one of the root causes of labour right violations, there is a lack of empirical evidence as well as insight into which practices are most detrimental. Thus, the main question this paper aims to answer is whether and which sourcing practices impact working conditions in the garment sector.

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Turkmenistan’s cotton industry is underpinned by a state-sponsored forced labor system. During each year’s harvest, and confirmed again in 2021 by independent monitors, the government forces tens of thousands of public sector workers to pick cotton, or – as alternatives – pay a bribe, or hire a replacement worker. Anyone unable to do this faces threats of lost wages and termination of employment. 

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Die Digitalisierung verändert die Machtverhältnisse im Mode-Kapitalismus. In der Schweiz werden heute bereits drei von zehn Kleidungstücken im Internet gekauft. Vor allem die grossen Onlinehändler und Handelsplattformen wachsen rasant: Zalando, Amazon, Shein und Co. haben sich binnen nur eines Jahrzehnts zu dominierenden Akteuren im globalen oder zumindest europäischen Modemarkt entwickelt. Sie beeinflussen zunehmend das Angebot sowie die Daten, das Surfverhalten und die Bildschirmzeit von Konsument*innen. Doch wie verantwortungsvoll und transparent sind die digitalen Player?

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