Femnet e.V.

The report uncovers the grim reality of homeworkers in India, the invisible female workforce who stitch the leather uppers of shoes bound for sale in the UK and Europe. The shoe industry is an immense global business, with over 24 billion pairs produced last year alone, equating to three pairs of shoes made for every single person living. Complex global supply chains mean that tracing a pair of shoes from the shop floor through the factories, homes and tanneries in which they originated is virtually impossible. A lack of regulations allows this multi-billion pound industry to continue to operate without transparency. Issues with workers safety and poverty wages abound in an industry built on exploitation, however those at the bottom of the chain are homeworkers. These are the ‘invisible’ women who stitch leather uppers in their home, earning next to nothing, with no security or benefits.

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The summary gives an overview on the situation of homeworkers in India, the invisible female workforce who stitch the leather uppers of shoes bound for sale in the UK and Europe. The shoe industry is an immense global business, with over 24 billion pairs produced last year alone, equating to three pairs of shoes made for every single person living. Complex global supply chains mean that tracing a pair of shoes from the shop floor through the factories, homes and tanneries in which they originated is virtually impossible. A lack of regulations allows this multi-billion pound industry to continue to operate without transparency. Issues with workers safety and poverty wages abound in an industry built on exploitation, however those at the bottom of the chain are homeworkers. These are the ‘invisible’ women who stitch leather uppers in their home, earning next to nothing, with no security or benefits.

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The report gives an overview of the Indian Leather and Footwear Industry in terms of its geographical distribution, its structure and its position in world trade. It gives an introduction into labour rights in India regarding the freedom of association, social insurance, occupational safety and health as well as labour contracts and minimum wages. Based on a survey, the report sums up findings regarding labour rights violations in the Indian leather and footwear industry. Concluding, it gives recommendations to the Indian leather and footwear companies, the Indian government as well as EU member states.

Redaktion: Bhattacharjee, Anannya; Deter, Melanie; Deutsche Version unter dem Titel „Auf der Stelle (ge)treten. Arbeitsrechtsverletzungen in der indischen Leder- und Schuhindustrie“ erschienen.

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Die Broschüre gibt einen Überblick über die Produktion eines Lederschuhs mit all ihren Stationen. Dabei fokussiert sie auf Aspekte und Auswirkungen, die bedenklich sind für Mensch und Umwelt. Sie startet mit einem Überblick zu Zahlen der Lederindustrie und zeigt die Verbindungen zur Fleischproduktion auf. An ökologischen Auswirkungen beleuchtet sie den Verbrauch von Boden und Wasser. Zur Lederproduktion geht sie auf die geographische Verbreitung ein und fokussiert anschließend auf die Lederproduktion in Italien. Hier problematisiert sie insbesondere die Arbeitsbedingungen und Arbeitsrechtsverletzungen, wie der übermäßige und missbräuchliche Einsatz von Leiharbeit und illegaler Anstellungspraktiken. Abschließend gibt die Broschüre Tipps für einen nachhaltigen Konsum von Leder und Handlungsmöglichkeiten zur Verbesserung der Arbeitsbedingungen in der Lederindustrie.

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As with many other garment producing countries exporting to the European and American market, Cambodia has been in the spotlight because of its poor working conditions and low wages for apparel workers. The country’s garment sector engages some 750000 workers in more than 1000 factories.
The report is based on interviews with garment workers in 4 H&M supplier factories in Cambodia in February and March 2016. The factories are rated by H&M as gold and platinum suppliers. Several violations were identified in each of the factories. The H&M platinum suppliers, Eastex, Vanco and Seduno, were presumed to perform better than the selected gold supplier, M&V. However, general working conditions at the platinum suppliers were actually worse than the gold rated supplier M&V.

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