Femnet e.V.

This is the second part of the white paper: The Great Green Washing Machine. The first part “Back to The Roots Of Sustainability” demonstrates that in fashion at the present time, sustainability is not properly defined, and the vital metric - impact on the multidimensionally poor - is not considered.

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This white paper is the first of a series of publications in which we will build upon that body of thought. We will examine sustainable fashion – the claims, the measurement, the reporting. We will critically assess the extent to which fashion’s efforts are contributing to meaningful change, and to what extent they are a distraction, and inhibiting genuine transformation. We will also suggest

ways in which governments can change the rules, and so alter mindsets and corporate behaviour, to obtain the results that we all want – a halt to climate change and a more equitable world.

The fashion industry has the potential to create positive impacts for business and society. It can catalyse decent jobs and opportunities that support socio-economic development in the global south and it can innovate and align production and marketing with planetary boundaries.

In this initial white paper, we start with the foundation from which all sustainability initiatives must be derived.

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Der sechste Jahresbericht prognostiziert, dass die globale Modeindustrie nach fast zwei Jahren des Umbruchs wieder Tritt fassen wird. Dennoch steht die Branche angesichts der Unterbrechung der Lieferkette, der schwankenden Nachfrage und des anhaltenden Drucks auf die Gewinne vor großen Herausforderungen. Laut der Autor*innen werden zehn Themen in drei Kategorien für die Modebranche im Jahr 2022 entscheidend sein: Weltwirtschaft: Ungleichmäßige Erholung, logistischer Stillstand; Veränderungen im Verbraucherverhalten: heimischer Luxus, Kleiderschrank Umgestaltung, metaverse Denkweise; Modesysteme: soziales Einkaufen, Kreislauftextilien, Produktpässe, Cyber-Resilienz, Talentknappheit.

This study confirms the significant economic and environmental potential of circular business models. It provides an overview of the potential of models that have grown significantly (resale, rental, repair and remaking) as well as, crucially, outlining the key actions that businesses, supported by policymakers, can take to capture their full potential. While this study does not address them directly, the social implications of a circular economy transition are vital to consider; academia and organisations including BSR and Circular Apparel Innovation Factory (CAIF) have already begun to do so.

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Over the past few decades, the production and consumption of clothing has increased exponentially, leading to a dramatic increase in the negative environmental consequences produced by the fashion industry. Given the rising pace of global warming and the rising concern about the fashion industry’s contribution to the climate crisis and its exploitative social dimensions, decision makers, politicians and government officials have begun to promote sustainable fashion through public policy. This article reviews the main barriers facing a circular economy in general and the fashion industry in particular. It considers nascent regulations emerging throughout the world in the field of sustainable fashion, applying circular economic principles to the fashion industry. Four categories of policy proposals are evaluated: Command and Control Interventions, Educational Initiatives, Incentives and Certification, grading them according to criteria of effectiveness, sustainability, feasibility, equity and compliance. The ranking process was based on an elicitation of expert judgement among a panel with expertise in the areas of sustainable fashion from the business sector, academia and civil society. Findings suggest that while some policy options appear to meet all criteria successfully, when selecting an optimal strategy for promoting sustainable fashion, there are frequently trade-offs between different alternatives.

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