31.05.2021: News from KW 21
Studies and Co.
Genevieve LeBaron et al. "The Ineffectiveness of CSR: Understanding Garment Company Commitments to Living Wages in Global Supply Chains": The study examines the measures taken by clothing companies to pay living wages. Very little evidence has been found that companies have made meaningful progress in implementing this project. Given the increasing evidence of the ineffectiveness of CSR, a need for new politico-economic research is seen about the benefits companies derive from CSR activities that divert attention from their core business models and the unequal distribution of value within global supply chains.
Know the Chain "2021 Apparel and Footwear Benchmarkt Report" (PDF file): The report examines the risks of forced labour in global supply chains. 37 companies were investigated, including the textile alliance companies Adidas (Second place, score: 86 out of 100), Primark (p:5, p:69), Puma (p:8, p:58), H&M (P:9, S:55) and Hugo Boss (p:16, p:49). 54% of the companies had allegations of forced labour, only 11% had measures to protect workers. Almost half of the companies (49%) received 0 points in the score, which focuses on the involvement of workers (Adidas (61), Primark (39), Puma (17), H&M (28) and Hugo Boss (11)) (statements on scores on page 6; Scorecards of companies).
News
Supply Chain Act: The coalition settles the dispute over the law and decides on some changes: Foreign companies in Germany should also be included, works councils should be given information rights in economic committees, a waste trade agreement is referred to. In addition, under pressure from the Union, it was ruled out that companies could be held civilly liable for human rights violations. The Federal Association of German Employers' Associations (BDA) is pleased with this "important limitation".
COVID-19: The Clean clothes campaign (CCC) supports the TRIPS-Waiver-Application, which aims to ensure the equitable distribution of COVID vaccines worldwide by suspending patent rights. The CCC calls, among other things, on the EU to drop the blockade stance against the application, listing outbreaks of major coronavirus clusters in India, Sri Lanka, Cambodia, Lesotho and Morocco, and explains the increased risk for textile workers.
Labour rights in Bangladesh: Afsana Alam reported on New age on the study of BRAC Institute of Governance and Development: "Livelihood Transitions and Coping with Shocks: Women in the Domestic Service and RMG Sector Coping with COVID-19". After many women were forced to give up their jobs in the textile sector during the pandemic, many now often choose not to work in textile factories and for domestic services, despite the higher salary and reputation.. This is often considered more dignified work, as it allows them to take a lunch break and take care of the family at home in between. In addition, they can wear their mobile phone at work to look for the right home in between. The findings of the study highlight the importance of breaks for women's mental and physical health.
Destruction of new goods Amazon: Greenpeace It was discovered by a secret researcher in a Amazonthe Logistics Centre in Lower Saxony regular destruction of new goods Reveal it. The video recordings document a department that appears to be firmly integrated into the production process with eight workstations ("destroy stations"), where new goods are regularly disposed of. Above all, "shopkeepers" of third-party dealers are destroyed. Due to an increased long-term storage fee, it is cheaper for traders to store goods for a fee of Amazon to be disposed of. The Act to Prevent the Destruction of New Goods ("Duty of Care"), which has been in force since 2020, is not implemented due to the lack of necessary regulations. In Washington is Amazon Currently also Charged with anti-competitive practices, as the group prohibits independent suppliers from offering their products cheaper on other platforms.
Uyghur forced labour: In October, we reported that the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) certification of cotton from the region Xinjiang suspended due to the forced labour of the Uyghurs (News Update KW 43 '20). The Coalition to End Forced Labour in the Uyghur Region BCI now criticizes having taken this statement from the website.
transparency: UNECE Launches blockchain-backed platform for traceability and transparency. The open source project is supported by 56 countries and aims to enable the traceability of every garment, from raw materials to trade. Through a call to action ("The Sustainability Pledge"), governments, companies and manufacturers are encouraged to commit to using the tool.
Coup in Myanmar: H&M New orders placed in Myanmar, after they had paused production in the country after the military coup. According to the company, no direct links to the military could be found in the production facilities. H&M is now looking for legal advice on how international companies should deal with possible indirect connections. Jonas ChristoffersenFormer Director of the Danish Institute for Human Rights in one of BESTSELLER commissioned study explains that there is no reason to believe that the three factories producing for BESTSELLER are directly related to the military (English summary on Page 120-122 - PDF file). Both companies argue that Myanmar's industry is dependent on foreign investment and supports workers by resuming cooperation. On how to deal with the situation in Myanmar, brand companies (including H&M and bestseller) and international trade unions ACT a "Framework for Responsible Suspension of Orders in Myanmar" and one "Fast-track Dispute Resolution Mechanism (DRM)" (PDF file) as Guidelines for companies sourcing in Myanmar.
From the countries of production
Sri Lanka: After the corona situation calmed down a bit until mid-April, there has been a resurgence since the beginning of May. Numerous reports from clusters in textile factories. Despite the outbreaks, most factories remain open.
Cambodia: There are also in Cambodia eruptions again after numerous factories were able to reopen after the lockdown. As Sources of infection are mainly seen in the trucks, in which the workers are close to each other, to get to the factory.
Bangladesh: In the case of one Fire in a dyeing plant Five workers suffered (partly severe) burns. The fire was triggered by a leak in a gas pipe.
India: FEMNET informed about the Effects of the lockdown in India. Partner organisations report significant psychological stress on textile workers and increased child labour.