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Between claim and reality: Private control systems in Bangladesh's textile industry
What effect do social and ecological certifications and standards actually have on the working and living conditions of textile workers? A new study by the Bangladesh Institute for Labour Studies (BILLS) investigates this question. FEMNET has classified the results together with further findings from the ongoing project in a complementary analysis.
The certifications were examined:
- Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS),
- Global Recycled Standard (GRS) and
- OEKO-TEX STeP standard,
and multi-stakeholder initiatives:
- amfori BSCI and
- Fair Wear Foundation (FWF).
The key finding: Even in large, export-oriented factories, problems such as untreated wastewater, poor handling of chemicals, unpaid overtime, gender-based violence or limited freedom of association are often not effectively captured or addressed. The focus of the study was deliberately not the isolated assessment of a single standard, but rather the question of whether workers de facto benefit from private governance systems such as audits as a whole.
© FEMNETThe findings in the environmental field are particularly alarming. While shortcomings in working conditions are unfortunately not surprising, the scale of the problems in wastewater and chemical management is particularly frightening. It is particularly clear here how large the gap between formal requirements, audit practice and reality in the production regions is.
Study and analysis make two things clear: On the one hand, the structural parameters need to be addressed, such as what promises certifications and multi-stakeholder initiatives actually deliver, where control systems need to be improved and how brands effectively implement their due diligence obligations. On the other hand, given the extent of the damage, complementary and effective measures, such as concrete solutions to protect water and health, are also needed in the short term.
Downloads
- Study: "Assessing the Impact of Social and Environmental Certification programs with respect to improvement of working conditions and a better environment of the community" (PDF, 1.2 MB)
- Analysis (English): "The Audit Charade: What Impact Do Social and Environmental Certifications Have on Workers and Surrounding Communities?" (PDF)
- Analysis (in German): "The great farce of audits: What impact do social and environmental certifications have on workers and surrounding communities?" (PDF)