This news update is a "study special", because in recent weeks informative studies on relevant topics have been published by numerous organizations.
Changing markets, Clean clothes campaign, Fashion revolution and others "Synthetics Anonymous - Fashion brands' addiction to fossil fuels" (PDF file): The report examines the behavior of some of the biggest fashion brands and retailers in terms of their use of synthetic fibers and transparency about them. 46 brands were contacted with a questionnaire, the majority of brands reduce their dependence on fibers from fossil fuels only slowly. The results also show the rampant greenwashing of commitments and products: 91% of the green data of H&M, ASOS and M&S have been found to be unfounded or misleading. In the case of: H&M and Zalando It has also been found that their "sustainable" collections contain more or almost as much synthetics as their main collection (Executive summary) (PDF file). Companies in the Textile Alliance can already make their used quantities of man-made fibres transparent in their 2021 roadmaps, which will become mandatory from 2023.
TextileExchange "Organic Cotton market Report 2021" (PDF file): The report provides an analysis of key data and emerging trends in organic cotton production at global, regional and country level. Every year, the report uses data from the past harvest season and insights from industry insiders to shed light on current issues and priorities for the organic cotton sector.
Better Cotton Initiative "2020 Anual report": The BCI The annual report reflects progress made in the past year in achieving the given goals and examines successes and challenges in the field and in the market.
Global Living Wage Coalition "Living Wage update: March 2021 - Dhaka, Bangladesh and Satellite Citites" (PDF file): According to the update of Global Living Wage Coalition needs a family in Dhaka (Bangladesh) 34.187 Taka (340,47€) for a decent standard of living. On average, however, a family whose adults work in the apparel industry earns only 21,648. Taka (215,59€). Values were also collected for satellite cities (28,307 Taka/282,21€ and 17,926 Taka/178,72€).
Asia Floor Wage "Money Hei$t - COVID-19 Wage Theft in Global Garment Supply Chains" (PDF file): For the study, 2,185 garment workers in 189 factories in Bangladesh, Cambodia, India, Indonesia, Pakistan and Sri Lanka were surveyed. The report identifies 15 major brands and retailers that abruptly canceled orders or denied payments to garment factories in Asia, which in turn passed on their losses to workers by enforcing mass layoffs and illegal layoffs, in addition to other exploitative and devious tactics uncovered in the report. According to the report, textile workers sank into extreme poverty, crushing debt, hunger and poor health. Examined companies in the Textile Alliance: Adidas, H&M, Primark and C&A.
Clean clothes campaign "Breaking Point - Wage theft, violence and excessive workloads are pushing garment workers to breaking point during pandemic" (PDF file): For this report, the CCC Interviews with 49 garment workers in the supply chains of H&M, Nike and Primark Bangladesh, Cambodia and Indonesia. The interviews show that the crisis triggered by the coronavirus continues to have a devastating impact on the wages, working conditions and labour rights of women garment workers. 29 of the 49 interviewees stated that they earn less than before the pandemic; 34 did not receive their full salary at times during the pandemic.
BLAST "Tire Them Out - Challenges of litigating compensation claims under the Bangladesh Labour Act 2006" (PDF file): The study looked at 80 compensation cases, all of which were related to injuries and deaths in the workplace and were negotiated by the organization. It took an average of 601 days for the labour courts to reach a verdict in cases of injuries or deaths at the workplace, although the legal deadline is 60 days. Such excruciatingly long waiting times are often unsuccessful because employers routinely disregard court decisions and workers then have to go through criminal proceedings to get what they are legally entitled to. On average, after the verdict, the employers took another 475 days to pay out the money. This means that a worker or the survivors have to wait several years until they get their money.
Fashion revolution "The Fashion Transparency Index 2021": The Index analyzes and evaluates 250 of the world's largest fashion brands and retailers based on their public reporting of human rights and environmental policies, practices and impacts in their operations and supply chains. Only about 47% of the companies disclose the ready-to-wear businesses, only about 27% the finishing companies or spinning mills. The textile alliance companies were also examined. Gerry Weber (score 5%), Takko (12%), KiK (14%), Otto (20%), Aldi North (25%), Lidl (27%), Aldi southern (31%), Hugo Boss (33%), Primark (38%), Puma (51%), Tchibo (53%), Adidas (54%), Esprit (60%), C&A (65%), and H&M (68%).
GoodWeave International "Best Practice Series to Eliminate Child Labor in Global Supply Chains": The five-part series explores how companies and NGOs can combat child labour in supply chains. The series includes breifings on the five components: Effective standard setting (PDF file), Control and monitoring (PDF file), Detailed coverage of the supply chain (PDF file), Remedial actions (PDF file) and prevention (PDF file).
ITUC Violence and Harassment in the World of Work Faciliator guide (PDF file) and Activity workbook : The historic adoption of ILO Convention 190 (C190) by the International Labour Conference In 2019, a new impetus was given to the fight against violence and harassment, including gender-based violence and harassment, in the world of work. The Faciliator guide is aimed at trainers and facilitators of workers as well as trade union workers and representatives to develop training programmes for trade union members. This Activity workbook includes example activities for training or campaigns on violence and harassment in the world of work.
World Benchmarking Alliance "2021 Gender Benchmark Insights Report": The report assesses 35 apparel companies in their efforts to advance gender equality and women's empowerment across their value chain. In addition, leading practices and calls for action for certain stakeholder groups are shown. Although some companies demonstrate leading practices, most still need to take transformative measures necessary to advance gender equality and women's empowerment. Evaluate companies in the Textile Alliance: Adidas (50.1 points out of 100), Primark (36,1) and H&M (31,5)
