17.11.2021: News from KWs 44 and 45

Studies and Co.

WRAP "The Sustainable Clothing Action Plan 2020 Commitment 2012-2020" (PDF): The multi-stakeholder initiative WRAP published a final report on the results of its Sustainable Clothing Action Plan (SCAP), which expired last year. The results of the impact measurement show that the signatories, which include brands, retailers, textile recycling companies, scientists and NGOs, have exceeded the industry's carbon and water footprint reduction targets, but are lagging behind in waste prevention efforts. The previous action plan is now followed by the agenda Textiles 2030The main aim is to pave the way for a circular fashion industry in the UK.

The Economist Intelligence Unit "Is sustainability in fashion? Industry leaders share their views" (PDF file): The report draws on the insights of experts and the observations of decision makers from leading brands on the sustainability challenges facing the fashion industry. They were interrogated, among other things. Stefan Seidel (PUMA), Franke Henke (Adidas) and Dr. Jürgen Janssen (Covenant of Textiles). The research illustrates the ambitions, frustrations, confidence and fears of industry leaders at a time of extreme upheaval. One of the key findings is that brands know that data can help them measure progress towards achieving sustainability goals. However, most do not collect enough data and industry-wide standardised data collection procedures are needed.

IndustriALL Europe, Traidcraft Exchange and this Fair trade advocacy office (FTAO) "Leveraging the Unfair Trading Practices Directive to benefit the Garment Sector" (PDF file): The organisations have published a joint paper on the policy options to end UTPs in the global apparel sector. The paper addresses the precedent of the EU directive on unfair trading practices in the agri-food supply chain, arguing that a similar legal instrument is urgently needed for the clothing sector. The paper provides an overview of some of the main unfair trading practices faced by apparel manufacturers, such as disproportionately low purchase prices, often below production costs, short lead times, poor payment conditions, unilateral contract changes or shifting risks to the detriment of manufacturers.

News

Situation of the industry: About 40% of fashion companies struggle with supply chain issues. It is also assumed that the delivery difficulties in the fashion trade will continue for a good six months. The problems are not yet reflected in the price: The general inflation rate rises to 4.5% in October, However, clothes and shoes are hardly more expensive than they were a year ago. (+1,1%). However, many companies are announcing early price increases. The The price of cotton is at its highest level in ten years., having risen by 54% over the past year. It seems inevitable that this trend will also have an impact on clothing prices. Reasons for the price increases include lockdowns and supply problems (e.g. forced labour of the Uyghurs in Xinjiang), but also strong demand and unfavourable weather conditions.

COP26 Policy receivables: In one Call to Action Many civil society organisations in the fashion industry called on world leaders to commit to five formulated recommendations (e.g. achieving net-zero emissions by 2050 at the latest, waste prevention, due diligence in global supply chains, education (repair & reuse). On the COP26 In addition, more than 50 brands, suppliers, retailers, non-governmental organisations and industry associations support the demand of Textile exchange a policy that incentivises the use of environmentally friendly materials. In the Textile exchange on the COP26 The proposed application calls for preferential tariffs for materials such as organic cotton and recycled fibres. The application supports the objective of: Textile exchangeaccelerating progress towards the industry target of a 45% reduction in greenhouse gas emissions from the production of textile fibres and materials by 2030. One of the preferred materials is Textile exchange In addition to organic cotton, recycled polyester is also available.

Fashion Industry Charter for Climate Action: The Framework Convention on Climate Change (United Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change, UNFCCC) publishes an Updated Charter with renewed commitments for the fashion industry (PDF file), with the aim of aligning the industry with the 1.5-degree target. The focus is on the Encourage companies to set science-based targets or halve their emissions by 2030, with a commitment to achieve net-zero emissions by 2050 at the latest. This is an update of the previous target to reduce overall greenhouse gas emissions by 30% by 2030. One "Roadmap to Net Zero" have this World Resources Institute (WRI), that Apparel Impact Institute and the Laudes Foundation elaborated. Institutions estimated on the basis of data from the Sustainable Apparel Coalition and of Textile exchange the expected emissions in the clothing sector and formulate six actions to close the gap to the 45% emission reduction target (material efficiency, sustainable materials & practices, innovative materials, energy efficiency, elimination of coal in manufacturing, transition to 100% renewable energy).

Old clothes: In the news update of KW 37, we reported on the impact of donating clothes on people and the environment in Ghana. Also Chile Suffers from pollution caused by fast fashion. In the port of Iquique in the free zone Alto Hospicio in the North ChileApproximately 59 000 tonnes of clothing arrive each year. Clothing retailer from the capital, 1,800 km to the south Santiago buy a part of it, while a large part is smuggled into other Latin American countries. However, at least 39,000 tons that cannot be sold end up in dumps in the desert Atacama.

Countries of production

Pakistan: The Government of the Province Sindh (Region Karachi) raised the minimum wage. Against this, the factory owners defend themselves with lawsuits in court and the threat to emigrate. The difficulties of the workers to assert themselves against this strategy of their employers, as well as regular wage theft and other labour rights violations are reported in detail. Articles from The Dawn .