Femnet e.V.

Pressemeldungen - Unternehmensverantwortung & Lieferkettengesetz

20 February 2020 Well protected? Exploitation for European workwear

FEMNET publishes studies on working conditions in India and Tunisia

Extremely low wages, fixed-term contracts and the suppression of trade unions: Occupational clothing is intended to protect employees, but in manufacturing the working conditions are as precarious as in the fashion industry. Research commissioned by FEMNET in Indian and Tunisian factories shows: European brands accept that national labour laws and international core labour standards are trampled on in their suppliers.

In India, the non-governmental organization CIVIDEP for FEMNET investigated several textile factories that produce workwear and protective clothing for the European companies BartelsRieger, Olymp and Cerva Group. Employees worked there under conditions that can be classified as forced labour. The basic salary is extremely low and needs to be topped up with overtime. Those who refuse to work overtime risk being dismissed. "It is particularly striking that workers are not given the opportunity to take action against these conditions themselves. In all the establishments examined, factory management threatened trade union activities, for example through redundancies," explains Anni Korts-Laur, coordinator of FEMNET's new country studies.

Germany and Europe are important sales markets for the Tunisian textile industry. The labour law organisation FTDES (dt. Tunisian Forum on Economic and Social Rights) researched for FEMNET suppliers of the European occupational clothing companies S-Gard, Havep and Alsico. Employees report wages well below livelihoods. Many workers are held in fixed-term employment, although long-term employees are legally entitled to an indefinite contract.

“The short contract durations facilitate factory closures. Since Tunisian investment laws create incentives for new start-ups, existing factories are often closed after only a few years and reopened under a new name. Factory owners benefit from tariff reductions and infrastructure support, but this means maximum job uncertainty for workers.” Anni Korts-Laur

Individual occupational clothing brands are striving for improvements, but working conditions remain unsustainable. FEMNET encourages manufacturers to ensure that their suppliers comply with national laws on overtime, minimum wages and occupational safety. European brands need to put their purchasing practices to the test. In order to comply with their corporate due diligence, they need to identify and eliminate social and environmental risks in their supply chains. German and European brand companies must be obliged to comply with human and labour rights by means of a supply chain law.

contact

Anni Korts-Laur, study coordinator
Tel. +49 228 90 91 73 09
E-mail: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

Katharina Edinger, Press & Public Relations Officer
Tel. +49 228 18 03 81 16
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Press release of 20.02.2020 (PDF file)

About FEMNET e.V.

FEMNET is a non-profit women's rights organization based in Bonn. Founded in 2007, the association advocates for better working conditions in the clothing industry of the global South, where much of the clothing used in the West is sewn. FEMNET requires companies to comply with social standards along the entire supply chain, for which the policy should create binding rules. Women in India and Bangladesh support FEMNET through a mutual legal assistance fund. In addition, the association supports partner organizations in the work against violence against women in the workplace and for better childcare in textile factories. In Germany, FEMNET conducts educational work at universities and schools, advises cities and municipalities on the purchase of fair workwear and provides information on seals and fair-produced clothing.