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Fair procurement for the public sector - FEMNET-Studies

Sustainability is not in vain: How much does sustainable textile procurement cost?

Many municipalities want to buy work clothes, bed linen and towels more sustainably, but worry about higher prices. Since economical management is an important criterion for the public sector, price often plays the decisive role in the award of contracts.

FEMNET has addressed the question of the costs of sustainable procurement in a study – together with the Südwind Institute and on behalf of the Gesellschaft für Internationale Zusammenarbeit (Society for International Cooperation). Concrete case studies for workwear and flat linen illustrate the impact of compliance with sustainability standards on the price of textiles.

Manufacturer: Sustainability costs extra

The question of the additional costs of sustainable textiles varies depending on the stage of the supply chain. The textile manufacturers surveyed for this study agree: More sustainable production costs more. Better wastewater filters or continued payment of wages in the event of illness cause costs, as does the inspection of the establishments by external inspectors – similar to the TÜV inspection of a car. Depending on the sustainability standard used and the level of ambition, the additional costs are low (1-3 %) to very significant (25 %).

Trade and rental laundry companies: unclear picture

© Engin_Akyurt - pixabay.deIn most cases, municipalities do not buy directly from manufacturers, but purchase their textiles from a specialist retailer or a rental laundry company. However, prices here are more determined by other factors (decrease quantities, quality, duration of the business relationship, etc.) and less by sustainability. With regard to pricing, there is no clear picture: Sometimes sustainable textiles are more expensive than conventional ones, sometimes cheaper, sometimes they have the same price.

Municipalities: sometimes more expensive, sometimes cheaper, sometimes the same

The picture also remains blurred among the municipalities surveyed. In some cases, textiles that have been procured taking into account social and ecological criteria are more expensive to offer than conventional textiles that are otherwise comparable. Some of them are cheaper; In some cases, the price is the same. However, since there is no systematic data collection, the data situation here is difficult.

recommendations

Municipalities, suppliers and politicians can help ensure that workwear and flat linen are procured more sustainably in the future. Contracting authorities should focus more on the sustainability of their procurement practices, implement pilot projects and set guidelines. Textile manufacturers and retailers should take responsibility for their supply chains, expand sustainable product ranges and enter into greater dialogue with local authorities. The policy should provide a good framework for sustainable procurement, for example by expanding support services for buyers and supporting dialogue between large consumers and suppliers.