Femnet e.V.

Fair procurement for the public sector - FEMNET-Studies

Traceable textiles: New evidence for sustainable public procurement?

Technical solutions for traceability of textile products could be an important tool to bring together verified sustainability information on supply chains, products and companies. As part of a study, FEMNET examined how they could be applied in the demonstration of public procurement – and where there are currently still limits.

Sustainability is of increasing relevance for the public sector in the procurement of textiles. However, the examination of submitted evidence always presents clients with challenges. There is no single proof for all aspects of sustainability. Potentially, traceability solutions for public buyers could be a great relief here. So far, however, the full potential has not been exhausted.

This study focuses in particular on traceability solutions, which are important for the supply chains of workwear and flat linen. The research design corresponds to that of a qualitative study: In addition to a detailed literature search, an online survey, interviews and background discussions were conducted. The evaluation of the collected data was carried out by a qualitative content analysis. The study is not a representative survey.

Tool for a sustainable textile and clothing industry

Traceability solutions can record the path of a product and, in some cases, other relevant information, such as aspects of sustainability management. The study illustrates how they contribute to greater sustainability and transparency in various ways. A textile company that uses such a solution, for example, shows that it is working towards greater transparency in its supply chains.

Quality and quantity of the imaged data crucial

Traceability solutions cannot yet guarantee better working conditions in textile factories. © FEMNET However, the use of a technical solution does not guarantee that products are fully traceable. Also, products with sustainability standards are not automatically fully traceable. On the one hand, a traceability solution is only as good as the data with which it is maintained. On the other hand, the amount of data available determines whether a product is actually traceable throughout the supply chain.

Recommendations for buyers

The study showed that the traceability solutions considered differ greatly in some cases with regard to the data depicted. Specific data must therefore be requested and checked on a case-by-case basis. In public procurement, traceability solutions can therefore be relevant for market research, but do not (yet) replace the examination of submitted evidence. Nevertheless, procurers already have various opportunities to anchor them in the procurement process in order to promote transparency and sustainability.

The individual production steps of garments can be better understood through the use of digital solutions. © inmorino ⁇ pixabay.com For example, within the award criteria, tenderers who disclose one or more production plants could be rewarded. In order to establish transparency as an exclusion criterion, the Tender Specifications could require that products offered must be traceable up to a certain level. In addition, for the fitness check, the requirement that tenderers have sufficient traceability solutions in their company in the sense of technical equipment would be conceivable. In addition, the performance conditions could oblige contractors to provide proof of origin and production conditions by means of traceability solutions when executing the contract.

The study was carried out as part of the FEMNET project ‘Procurement fairModify’. The project is funded by Engagement Global with its service center Kommunen in der Eine Welt (SKEW) with funds from the BMZ. It is supported by Fairtrade Germany.