Recherchetool für Materialien

Research Tool for Materials

The materials database contains media on our key topics of working conditions in the textile and clothing industry and the environmental impact of clothing. The types of media include studies, guidelines and reports, as well as films, podcasts and web tools.

The garment and footwear sector employs millions of low-skilled workers, many of whom are women and acts as an entry point into the formal economy in many countries. As such, enterprises operating in the sector have the potential to generate growth, employment and skill development through their own operations and sourcing. However, human rights and labour abuses and harm to the environment by enterprises are prevalent throughout the supply chain in this sector. While such impacts are not new to the sector, the characteristics of modern global supply chains–such as stages of the production process spread across diverse countries, short lead times and short-term buyer-supplier relationships- can reduce visibility and control over an enterprise’s supply chain and can create challenges for enterprises to meet their responsibilities. Within this context, the risks of human rights and labour abuses, of environmental damage and integrity risks should be managed throughout the supply chain in order to ensure that the positive impacts of this global industry are maximised.

The purpose of this Guidance is to support a common understanding of due diligence in the garment and footwear sector aligned with the OECD Guidelines. This Guidance provides recommendations for enterprises on how to implement due diligence according to the OECD Guidelines in their own operations and in their supply chains. Due diligence should be ongoing, proactive and reactive and applied with flexibility and should not lead to a “tick the box” approach.

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This essay is innovative as it includes the MSI approach and the "involvement" of rights holders: It is collaboratively written by Mareike Standow, LL.M. (European University Viadrina, Germany), Nandita Shivakumar (Business and Human Rights Researcher, India) Thivya Rakini (Tamil Nadu Textile and Common Labour Union, India - by the union leader herself) and takes up some essential points.

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The Coronavirus pandemic is one of the most severe health, humanitarian and economic crises of our time. Outbreaks are affecting all segments of the population in every corner of the globe, however the health and economic impacts of the virus are being borne disproportionately by the poorest and most vulnerable. The effects of COVID-19 and associated restrictions could be felt for decades.

Companies have a responsibility to respect the rights of workers and other stakeholders in their operations and across their supply chains at all times. Fulfilling this responsibility is more essential than ever in the present climate, especially where the most vulnerable workers and communities are concerned.

This is why WBA decided to supplement the 2020 CHRB assessment with a separate study, which considers how the same 229 companies have been impacted by, and have responded to, the increased human right risks and impacts associated with the COVID-19 crisis.

By carrying out this separate study, WBA wanted to explore the response of the private sector to COVID-19. The aim was to identify examples of best practice, where companies have demonstrably placed respect for human rights at the heart of their approach, as well as to highlight instances where companies may have been falling short and, therefore, where increased accountability is needed.

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The fact sheet first deals with the textile industry in India, especially in the state of Tamil Nadu. It then introduces the system of camp work, which has so far been discussed under the heading of Sumangali and represents a modern form of slavery. Finally, it presents demands from local non-governmental organisations aimed at spinning mills, international buyers – i.e. fashion companies that also sell their clothes in Germany – and governments in Europe. The fact sheet can be used as teaching material.

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