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Textile workers wearing masks on deen sewing machines.
© FEMNET

Bangladesh in the face of the second wave: The coronavirus pandemic will change the clothing industry

It is not only in this country that the economy and society fear the consequences of the partial lockdown. In Bangladesh, there is growing concern among textile suppliers.
Factory owners of the country, which is considered the second largest manufacturer of clothing in the world, choose strong words to express their desperation. It was a catastrophe, he said. Fashion network the supplier Siddiqur Rahman, which produces for the fashion giants H&M and GAP, among others. European customers, who have been under pressure since spring, demanded price reductions of up to 15%. The hope of being able to count on rising orders again in the second half of the year and with a view to the Christmas business has broken down.

The economic recovery in Bangladesh's textile sector will be delayed even longer, if not absent, according to many producers. And they are once again forced to drastically shut down their production. Many of the approximately 4 million workers will continue to face existential hardship for the foreseeable future, as they will have to forego paid overtime, among other things. “Without overtime, I cannot cover my expenses,” explains Banesa Begum, a worker from a suburb of the million-dollar metropolis of Dhaka. The fact that Bangladesh also expects an increasing number of infections exacerbates the precarious situation of many women.

External help, such as donations, will continue to be needed. FEMNET can thus support partners such as NGWF or BCWS to take measures to mitigate the crisis.

In the long run, the crisis calls for holistic solutions. Because it hits all the players in the clothing industry, albeit not equally hard. Mostafiz Uddin, a jeans producer from Dhaka and Bangladesh's committed voice for a sustainable textile industry, outlines findings that, in his view, could initiate a change of direction. In a recently published Article considers the problem of overcapacity, which will necessarily lead to rationalisation. In the face of a global recession, it will be necessary for the government and the economy to make joint efforts to change the textile industry in the best possible and socially acceptable way. According to Uddin, it is essential that the relationships between buyers and suppliers are made much more transparent and, for example, that the risk is better distributed between the two. This is the only way to create real partnerships.

Less competitive, but constructive and cooperative, this is how his plea can be described. For many European fashion companies, this is certainly an equally great challenge, as in the past they had rather low prices in mind than to ensure social standards at their suppliers.

Last but not least, consumers can also contribute to change. Less is more - for everyone. Buying less, but a little more expensive because of higher quality, will affect wages in the Global South. At the same time, a change in consumer behaviour affects the environment and thus the quality of life in a positive sense.

The important educational work of FEMNET shows here possibilities for action. It builds a bridge to the women of Bangladesh.