News - The Partnership for Sustainable Textiles (Textiles Partnership)

Civil society members see textile alliance at risk

The textile alliance initiated by Federal Development Minister Gerd Müller (CSU) does not sufficiently motivate companies to commit themselves to respecting human rights in their supply chains. This is criticised by the civil society members of the alliance on the occasion of a networking meeting that will take place on 5 June 2018 in Hanover. The companies that have joined the Textile Alliance so far cover slightly less than 50 percent of the German textile market. It is also likely that additional members will have to leave the alliance at the beginning of July if they do not comply with the obligation to draw up an annual action plan. Civil society members pointed out that the voluntary textile alliance could make meaningful contributions to the implementation of standards. However, effective legal rules applicable to all companies are necessary for the realization of human rights in the textile supply chain.

In order for the voluntary textile alliance to become more credible among the public, more transparency in the testing process must be created. "So far, the reports of the member companies are only formally checked for plausibility by two consulting companies, but not for their depth of content," criticises Dr. Gisela Burckhardt of FEMNET e.V. and adds: “A substantive review and transparency of the evaluation would be necessary. Since the starting point is not public, it is difficult for outsiders to see what improvements a member is seeking. As a result, the process is non-transparent and allows too few conclusions to be drawn about the actual commitment of the companies.

In August, the action plans of all members are to be published in the Textile Alliance. "The level of ambition of these plans is crucial to assess whether the Alliance members are really committed or are only hiding behind the minimum requirements," says Dr Sabine Ferenschild from the SÜDWIND Institute, adding: "This is crucial for the success of the Textile Alliance." In order to better assess the action plans, the civil society actors in the Textile Alliance have commissioned a study. Experts from the Öko Institut have worked out how member companies should implement the requirements ambitiously. The study also criticizes the non-transparent testing process of the Textile Alliance.

"The textile alliance currently runs the risk of remaining ineffective if the priorities it has set itself are not adhered to," criticises Berndt Hinzmann of the INKOTA network for development policy. For 2018, the governing body of the alliance has set the topic of living wages as its focus. "Little has actually happened so far," Hinzmann continued. “Existence-enhancing wages are a core issue and are linked to other issues such as trade union freedom or purchasing practices. On this key point, the Alliance needs to make clear progress later this year."

Contacts:
Dr Gisela Burckhardt, FEMNET/CCC, This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it., Tel.: 0152 01774080
Dr. Sabine Ferenschild, SÜDWIND Institute, This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it., Tel: 0228 7636 9816
Berndt Hinzmann, INKOTA network/CCC, This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it., Tel.: 0160 94 69 87 70

Hannover, 05 June 2018, Press release of civil society in the Alliance for Sustainable Textiles


The Alliance for Sustainable Textiles is an initiative launched in 2014 by the Federal Ministry for Economic Cooperation and Development with the aim of continuously improving social, ecological and economic sustainability along the entire textile chain. More at: https://www.textilbuendnis.com/. 19 civil society organisations are members of the Textile Alliance and are represented in the steering committee by the following three NGOs: FEMNET, INKOTA network, SOUTH WIND Institute. All three are also sponsors of the Clean Clothes Campaign.