News about Our Work - 27 April 2020 Coronavirus strengthens arguments for new EU textile laws FEMNET publishes joint vision for the global textile, apparel, leather and footwear (TGLF) sector with 64 civil society groups. As the European Commission plans to start developing a new and comprehensive strategy for textiles in the coming months, a group of 65 different civil society organisations today set out their vision for the global textile, clothing, leather and footwear (TGLF) sector. The Alliance published a unofficial strategy paper, the Civil Society Shadow Strategy (PDF file) [English summary, PDF file], in which it proposes various legislative and non-legislative measures that the EU can take to contribute to fairer and more sustainable TGLF value chains. Strategy for the global redesign of the textile industry The TGLF sector has long been characterised by labour law and human rights violations, as well as the immense pressure it puts on the environment and climate. The Civil Society Alliance – a broad coalition of advocates of fair trade, human and labour rights, and environmental and consumer protection – calls on the European Commission, MEPs and EU governments to pursue an ambitious strategy that will set in motion a global reshaping of the textile industry, which has been severely damaged in the aftermath of the coronavirus pandemic [see also the special Corona statement, (PDF file)]. In a joint letter, MEPs Delara Burkhardt (SPD), Heidi Hautala (Chair of the Greens/EFA Working Group on Responsible Business Conduct) and Helmut Scholz (LINKE) called on all Members of the European Parliament to share and support the Civil Society Shadow Strategy. In the letter, MEPs stress that "the textile sector is one of the sectors most affected by the COVID-19 crisis due to the power imbalances between its actors and its serious structural problems, including the environmental damage and governance issues it causes. It is one of the most polluting industries, the source of countless disasters such as that of Rana Plaza and a focal point for human rights violations that disproportionately affect women. Instead of voluntary action by industry: Shadow strategy with pooled expertise Sergi Corbalán, executive director of the Fair Trade Advocacy Office, said: Voluntary industrial action has not led to a fair and sustainable textile industry, so it is time for EU leaders to reshape the structure of the sector. Corbalán added: "This 'shadow strategy' provides the Commission with the combined expertise of 65 civil society organisations with years of experience in dealing with the various impacts of the sector. It is not a catalogue of measures from which the Commission can pick out certain aspects and neglect others, but a comprehensive strategy in which taking action in each area reinforces efforts in other areas". The civil society vision for a comprehensive EU textile strategy includes the following recommendations: Ensure that companies are legally obliged to take responsibility not only for their own activities, but for their entire supply chain. EU due diligence legislation will apply to all sectors, including specific requirements for the TGLF sector. The signing of a multi-stakeholder partnership should not exempt companies from responsibility. Stricter environmental rules related to the way textile products sold in the EU are designed and manufactured. The legal and financial responsibility of manufacturers for when their products become waste, as well as meaningful measures to promote transparency, should also be part of the requirements. Ensure that brands and retailers are legally required to comply with contracts. Unfair purchasing practices common in the industry, such as short-term order cancellations without payment for products already manufactured, must result in legally enshrined penalties. Policy reforms and better law enforcement in producer countries must become part of solving sustainability problems in the TGLF value chains. The EU must use its market power in trade policy to promote sustainable production practices in the TGLF industry. More information and the full text of the strategy here: http://bit.ly/TextilesEU Civil Society Shadow European Strategy for Sustainable Textile, Garments, Leather and Footwear Civil Society Shadow European Strategy for Sustainable Textile, Garments, Leather and Footwear Development Policy Network Saxony e.V. FEMNET e.V. Fair Trade Forum Women's Work of the North Church INKOTA network SOUTH WIND Institute TransFair e.V. (Fairtrade Germany) Transparency in Germany Consumer Service Federal Association World shop umbrella association The document Full strategy paper: European Strategy for Sustainable Textile, Garments, Leather and Footwear (2020, English, PDF) Supplementary statement on the coronavirus crisis: COVID-19 crisis: impacts on textile, garment, leather and footwear sector. The urgency of an EU comprehensive strategy to mitigate the effect on a high-risk value chain (2020, English, PDF) Summary: Civil Society European Strategy for Sustainable Textiles, Garments, Leather and Footwear (2020, English, PDF) Tell me what you're saying? #FairSustainableTextilesEU
