15.05.2023: News from KW 19

STUDIES AND CO.

Greenpeace "Greenwash Danger Zone - 10 years after Rana Plaza fashion labels conceal a broken system" (PDF): The report examines the sustainability claims of 14 brands that describe themselves as particularly "environmentally friendly" or "responsible." The supposedly sustainable collections of well-known brands include: Decathlon Ecodesign, H&M Conscious, Mango committee, Primark Cares, Tesco F&F Made Faithfully, Zara join life. The promises of the brands on these labels were classified as insufficient in several respects, e.g. because: confusing labels, including false "certifications" simply named after companies' sustainability programs; lack of internal or even external review of environmental, social and human rights measures; lack of public information on the entire production chain; no attempt to slow down the production of large quantities; misleading claims about "circular economy" based on recycled polyester from plastic bottles; use of "sustainable" or "responsible" for materials that are only slightly better; promotion of mixed fabrics such as polycotton, which are not recyclable; continued use of discredited measuring instruments such as the Higgs index; lack of disaggregation of information on materials; Rely on small changes when large changes in mass production are needed. loud Greenpeace The only way to get fashion companies to meet their environmental demands is to reduce the amount of clothing they produce. But many fashion companies don't even state how many garments they produce per year.

Textile exchange "Material Change Insights 2022" (PDF): The annual report examines the progress of the fashion, textile and apparel industries towards more sustainable materials procurement. The report analyses data from 424 companies - including brands, retailers, manufacturers and suppliers. This year's results show the following trends: The use of "preferred materials" continues to increase and now accounts for 56% of the materials used by participating companies; the share of recycled materials increased to 14%, with 4% of recycled content coming from post-consumer textile sources; greenhouse gas emissions increased by 5% in Tier 4 (raw material production) after having decreased during the pandemic, which means a return to normal business levels; the land area covered by sustainability standards is 18.3% of the total estimated land footprint for three key land-based materials (cotton, wool and cellulosic man-made fibres); the transparency of procurement regions is a necessity to understand locational risks and 47% of materials can currently be traced back to the country of origin; Circular business models continue to evolve, with 73% of companies trying this path and letting being the most popular solution. The results are promising evidence that companies are thinking about more sustainable procurement, developing strategies and building capacity. However, the change is neither rapid nor systematic enough to achieve the reductions necessary to achieve the goal of Textile exchange by 2030, reduce greenhouse gas emissions from material production by 45% while achieving positive impacts on soil health, water and biodiversity.

Fair Trade Advocacy Office & Clean Clothes Campaign "Fast Fashion Purchasing Practices in the EU" (PDF): The one from FTAO The report is based on one of the CCC Europe the existence of unfair trade practices in the European apparel industry. Based on interviews with suppliers, experts and trade union representatives in six EU Member States - Bulgaria, Romania, Croatia, the Czech Republic, Italy and Germany, the report paints a clear picture of the volatile, risky and unbalanced trade relations between brands and manufacturers. The investigation shows a general trend towards lowering prices, shortening lead times, increasing order changes, extending payment deadlines and passing on an increasing share of "hidden" costs, such as the production of initial samples, to manufacturers. As a result, suppliers run into financial difficulties and are unable to make investments and pay wages. The report focuses on two major centres of clothing production in Europe: Italy and Eastern Europe. Brands purchasing from the investigated manufacturers include: ASOS, Metro, MS Mode,Moncler and the Otto Group. Luxury brands were also included, but not mentioned at the request of the study participants.

NEWS

Rana Plaza: 24 April marked the tenth anniversary of the factory collapse, which was used by many organisations and media to report on developments in labour rights over the last ten years, e.g. FEMNET, FashionUnited, Human rights watch, Forbes, Business of Fashion, CNN, British Vogue and the Rosa Luxemburg Foundation. Reports from Baptist World Aid and the NYU Stern Center for Business and Human RIghts go into the subject. Consensus is that the factory buildings have become safer, other labor rights and the Rights of trade unions However, they have not improved, but have deteriorated in part as a result of the pandemic and inflation. Also the International Accordpublished an Statement and announces that already More than 50 companies Pakistan Accord signed have. Among the companies that recently joined is also Hugo Boss. INKOTA In the meanwhile, they demand Extension of the Accords on tanneries, shoe and leather factories. Also Minister for Development Schulze commented on the Rana Plaza Commemoration day and said: "There is still much to be done, especially on living wages and gender equality". She also advocated strong European supply chain legislation. According to a study by ActionAid are A total of 54.5% of survivors of Rana Plaza currently unemployed. Of these, 89% were unemployed in the last 5 to 8 years, while 5.5% have been unemployed for 3 to 4 years, according to the study. The study also found that the main reason for current unemployment is physical health. In one video from FEMNET Two women talk about how their lives have changed as a result of the collapse.

The first BAFAComplaint: FEMNET, ECCHR and NGWF on the basis of the Supply Chain Act, which entered into force in January 2023, the First complaint against Amazon and IKEA to the Federal Office of Economics and Export Control (BAFA), one. This is based on a trade union research carried out in Bangladesh in March 2023. National Garment Workers Federation(NGWF), which identified safety deficiencies such as lack of inspections, but also other labour rights violations such as lack of trade union freedom. This is despite the fact that an effective mechanism to improve workplace safety has been in place since 2013. Bangladesh AccordIt has already been signed by 195 companies. The three applicant organisations are convinced that non-signature constitutes a breach of corporate due diligence.

organic cotton: OEKO-TEX introduces the ORGANIC COTTON certification. loud OEKO-TEX The certification provides a comprehensive and objective testing system for organic cotton products with a fully verified chain of custody. The focus is on product and consumer safety as well as traceability. Fashion and textile products bearing this label were made from organic cotton grown without GMOs (genetically modified organisms) or pesticides and tested for other pollutants. In order to prove biological origin, the GMO quantification method distinguishes between: OEKO-TEX between impurities and intentional mixing with conventional cotton. The new certification is in line with several global regulations, including EU REACH Annex XIV and XVII, US CPSIA (lead), EU POP Regulation. In order to ensure clear consumer communication, OEKO-TEX Created a label and a sublabel: "ORGANIC COTTON" certifies items and materials made of 100% organic cotton, while "ORGANIC COTTON Blended" certifies items made of at least 70% organic cotton.

PRODUCTION COUNTRIES

Indonesia: 1. April 19th was the eighth anniversary of the Jaba Garmindo Bankruptcy was declared, which led to the sudden closure of two factories selling clothing for S.Oliver, Uniqloand others produced. At the end of April, he paid S.Oliver 100,000 euros to 2,000 of the affected workers, a payment which trade unions describe as "long overdue" but which is far from reaching the amount outstanding by the CCC It is estimated at $5.5 million. In 2021, the Fair Labor Associaton (FlaThe bankruptcy and closure of Jaba Garmindo "Not for misconduct" by S.Oliver or Fast retailing (Uniqlo) was due to financial mismanagement of the supplier, including irregular and irresponsible lending. However, the organization suggested that the other buyers "come together" to meet the "not yet met" needs of the affected workers. 2. A large clothing factory in the Indonesian city of Tangerang will close its operations and 1163 employees dismissed after their main client, Puma, has stopped placing orders due to sluggish demand on the European markets.

Bangladesh: Survivors of the Rana Plaza collapse and affected families have joined forces with the unions NGWF and AGWF before the Supreme Court of Bangladesh against the granting of a bail for the Rana Plaza owner Sohail Rana Protests and hunger strikes. The decision on the bail was suspended by the Supreme Court until May 8 and has now been postponed to July 10 (more information in the latest news update). The demonstrators pointed to the plight in which many affected families find themselves 10 years later and demanded that Sohail RanaHe, who has been charged with several murders, remains in prison. Also Other trade unions (SGSF & BFWS) protested and demanded the release on bail.

India: 1. Despite widespread opposition, the government of Tamil Nadu has Factories (Amendment) Act 2023 It provides for flexible working hours for factory workers. With this bill, the Maximum daily working time increased from 8 to 12 hours, with a maximum weekly working time of 48 hours. Many workers are at least 14 hours away from home as they commute at least one hour to work and home. Trade unions fear that the increased working hours will make workers overtired and more susceptible to accidents at work. 2. One 20-year-old migrant worker committed suicide on April 18 at the factory Shahi exports provided dormitory in Bangalore suicide. She had asked the management for leave to go to her hometown, but was denied. The guard of the dormitory, the home manager and the Janodaya Trust She knew she had tried to kill herself three times just a day earlier. The Janodaya Trust, who manages the dormitory, and the ShahiGroup of companies ignored this and did not react at the right time. The Garment Labour Union (GLU) had a dispute with the police of Peenya, which reportedly had not started the case two days after the incident. In Bangalore Mirror the general situation of migrant workers is criticised, inter alia because the arbitrary rules of the dormitories do not allow a normal social life for the very young workers. According to an NGO survey READ be Nearly 50% of migrant women working in the textile industry of Tiruppur harassed or abused by their superiors .