Femnet e.V.

20.05.2022: News from KW 20

Studies and Co.

Anti-Slavery "Anti-Slavery International analysis of the European Commission proposal for a Directive on corporate sustainability due diligence" (PDF): The organisation publishes a comprehensive analysis and recommendations to address the shortcomings of the European Commission's proposal for an EU Supply Chain Act. It is positively highlighted that the proposal covers the entire value chain of companies and takes into account the responsibility of companies not only towards their direct suppliers, but also the impact of their further business relationships. However, it is criticised, for example, that the exclusion of SMEs means that 99.8% of textile companies in the EU do not have to comply with the law at all, as they are not covered by it. The Directive should also pay particular attention to gender needs and other vulnerable groups such as children, marginalised communities and minorities, home workers and migrant workers.

Modern Slavery & Human Rights Policy & Evidence Center "Effectiveness of mandatory human rights and environmental due diligence" (PDF): This Policy Brief focuses on the effectiveness of mandatory human rights and environmental due diligence, looking at existing laws in France, Germany and Norway. There are numerous reports and case studies indicating that human rights due diligence (HRDD) can effectively address the risks of modern slavery in practice in a number of sectors. However, evidence of actual effectiveness can only be found by the law in France that entered into force in 2017. In addition, so far there has been little research on the impact of mHREDD laws on directly affected persons and their involvement in the design of such laws.

Science Based Targets Initiative "Science-Based Net-Zero - Scaling Urgent Corporate Climate Action Worldwide - Science Based Targets Initiative Annual Progress Report 2021" (PDF): According to this report, by the end of 2021, 2,253 companies have either committed to meet their emission reduction targets from the SBTi check, or the check has already been completed. This is more than doubling compared to last year. While the acceptance of science-based targets varied by region and sector, the initiative believes that the "critical mass" for adopting verified targets has now been achieved in all key regions. Worldwide, 27% of companies rated as particularly influential in terms of their emissions and further influence have now set science-based targets (Short summary). The textile alliance companies also Adidas, ALDI SOUTH, C&A, H&M, Hugo Boss, Puma and Tchibo were examined, all of which (except ALDI SOUTH) also report on their emission targets along the value chain (Scope 3) (all results in the appendix (PDF)).

ILR New Conversations Project "Security for Apparel Workers: Alternative models": In the paper, the researchers outline existing approaches that have attempted to provide garment workers with some level of income security, and use them to compile the necessary elements of a "global severance program." According to the authors, the "gold standard" to support redundant workers is a "comprehensive national model of unemployment benefits coupled with severance pay schemes that apply to all workers regardless of sector." However, the reality is that less than half of the world's population has access to some form of social protection, so "the vast majority of the world's population is unprotected in times of need, whether from national or global economic shocks or from the devastating consequences of global pandemics or extreme weather events." The authors recommend a global severance fund, the funds of which are provided through an agreement between global unions and global brand companies. A webinar will be held on 31 May to discuss the findings of the report (for registration).

News

Living wages and overproduction: In one VogueArticle explained Emily Chan the link between livelihood wages and the negative environmental impact of the fashion industry. Currently, there is a clear discrepancy between brands that choose to use more sustainable materials, but still do not ensure that their workers receive a fair wage. Given the huge amounts of clothing currently being produced, it would be a more sustainable - and ethical - model to pay garment workers a living wage to produce less. "Paying a living wage is the fastest way to meet the fashion industry's climate commitments," he said. Ayesha BarenblatFounder of the organization remake. "The reason for the overproduction and manufacture of disposable clothing is the payment of exploiter wages [...]. If we were to prescribe living wages, we would [also] address the consumer problem of fashion. A similar approach was also taken. Elizabeth L. Cline in one Forbes-Article (see news update of KW 4).

U.S. federal fashion industry law: Senator Kirsten Gillibrand (NY) on May 12th brought the Fashioning Accountability and Building Real Institutional Change (FABRIC) Act into the Senate. Should the law enter into force, it will comply with the principles of California's Law on the Protection of Garment Workers.SB62extend to the whole country to combat wage theft and offer incentives such as tax exemptions and grant programs for brands that want to produce in the United States.

Supply Chain Act: This Federal Ministry of Labour and Social Affairs has an FAQ on Supply Chain Law created. In addition to basic questions and terms, the following topics are addressed: the scope of the law, protected human rights in detail (e.g. adequate wages), risk management and analysis, prevention measures, documentation & reporting and monitoring by the Federal Office of Economics and Export Control.

Countries of production

Bangladesh: The EU Bangladesh has requested that the EPZ Labour Act to urgently amend the trade agreement with Bangladesh Everything but Arms (EBA) can be maintained, which allows duty-free and quota-free access to the EU market. The Bangladeshi government had announced changes to labor regulations, but the deadlines mentioned have already passed for months. Regarding the amendment of the Labour Act, the President of the Association said: BGMEA, Faruque Hassanthat it is the EU Issues such as the introduction of trade unions. However, due to the objections of foreign investors in the free export zones (FETs), the government cannot immediately make a decision on this issue.

In Bagerhat became a Clothing worker raped by 9 men on her way home from factory . Already last month we reported (in the news update of KW 13) about a gang rape of a textile worker who was raped by a former colleague and two other men.