Femnet e.V.

12.08.2022: News from KW 32

Studies and Co.

Greenpeace "Sustainability is sustainable" (PDF): Greenpeace has published a representative survey on buying behavior, wearing time and use of alternatives to buying new fashion (e.g. buying second hand, exchanging clothes, borrowing, repairing, making yourself) comparing the self-reports of the population with similar questions from 2015 and 2019. According to the survey, German wardrobes are less crowded than they were seven years ago: On average, every German now owns 87 pieces of clothing, eight fewer than in 2015. In absolute terms, that's 340 million pieces that are no longer in drawers or hanging on hangers. Germans' awareness of a more sustainable approach to fashion has increased noticeably over the past seven years. Sustainability has become more important than price for the first time in the purchase decision. The willingness to change one's own behavior has also increased across all age groups. Today, two-thirds of the population are already willing to buy less new clothes - and the vast majority of 89% intend to wear existing clothes longer. More and more people (now 58%) believe that companies should be obliged to take back and recycle clothing.

McKinsey & Company "Scaling textile recycling in Europe–turning waste into value" (PDF): The report focuses on fibre-to-fiber recycling, which currently accounts for only 1% of textile waste. However, this area is noisy McKinsey characterized by rapid innovations. Some technologies, such as the mechanical recycling of pure cotton, are already established. Other technologies, such as the chemical recycling of polyester, are the subject of intensive research and development and are on the verge of commercialization. Once mature, it is estimated that a total of 70% of textile waste could be recycled fibre-to-fiber (already 18-26% by 2030). To reach their full potential, fibre-fiber recycling technologies need to further develop their ability to process fibre blends, reduce costs and improve output quality. Once mature and of a certain size, these technologies could become a self-sufficient, profitable industry with a profit of between €1.5 billion and €2.2 billion by 2030. They could also save 4 million tonnes of CO2 emissions by 2030. In order to take advantage of this opportunity, cooperation and corresponding innovations are needed above all.

TextileExchange "2025 Recycled polyester challenge" (PDF) & "2025 Sustainable Cotton Challenge" (PDF): TextileExchange informs in the two annual reports about the progress of the cooperating companies (Cotton: e.g. ALDI North, Adidas, C&A, H&M and Otto; Polyester and others Adidas, H&M, Hugo Boss and Puma) in the field of recycled polyester or more sustainable cotton. At the Sustainable cotton challenge 162 companies have committed to source 100% of their cotton from one or more of the recognised programmes and initiatives by 2025 (e.g. Better Cotton (currently 50%) and Organic Cotton (17%)). 25% of companies have already achieved this in 2020. At the Recycled polyester challenge 132 companies commit to using 45-100% recycled polyester by 2025; 56% of companies (74) commit to replacing 100% of virgin polyester with recycled. 31% (41) have reduced their total amount of polyester fibres from 2019 to 2020. However, 18% (24) have increased their total amount of polyester fibers.

News

Greenwashing: The UK Competition and Markets Authority (Competition and Markets Authority, CMA) stated that it wanted to ‘get to the bottom’ of the question whether the three companies: Asos, Boohoo and Asda ‘misled’ their customers as to the sustainability of their products. The move is part of recent efforts by CMA, to take action against greenwashing in all sectors (see News Update of KW 5). In September 2021, the Supervisory Authority published the “Green claims code“, which sets out how companies can communicate their environmental performance honestly and accurately without misleading customers. The CMA will now examine, among other things, whether the criteria for including a product in the sustainability ranges are ‘lower than customers can reasonably expect’. As an example, products that consist of only 20 percent recycled material are mentioned. After all, she wants CMA investigate whether statements about textile accreditation systems and standards may be misleading, for example if it is not clear whether they relate to specific products or to the company's general practices. The Companies have publicly cooperated with the CMA Declared ready.

State of the economy: The Trade association (HDE) measures consumer sentiment with a consumer barometer. This index value fell to below 87 at the beginning of August, at an all-time low. The following months are also expected to be a weak consumer mood. The background is therefore the uncertainty surrounding future energy price developments. In view of the discussions in the media, people and companies are also concerned about a possible recession in Germany and assess the overall economic situation pessimistically. President of Industry Siegfried Russwurm Germany's economic growth is more at risk than expected in June; At that time he went Federal Association of German Industry (BDI) already only from 1.5% growth for economic output in the current year. Also the auditing and consulting company PwC comes to a similar conclusion: As a result of the coronavirus pandemic and the war in Ukraine, many companies are facing supply chain problems. This creates supply bottlenecks that retailers and consumers can feelwhen certain products are not available. The incoming inflation further dampens the buying mood. According to a study published on Tuesday by several institutes, the The war in Ukraine and its consequences will cost the German economy more than €260 billion in value added by 2030. In the coming year, around 240,000 people could be less economically active than without war.

Countries of production

Cambodia: 1. The Taz reports on the results of an Greenpeacethe Inquiry Information on the illegal incineration of waste and the disposal routes of well-known companies (Nike, Ralph Lauren, Michael Kors, Reebok, Next, diesel, Clarks) has found. Remnants of shoes, sweatshirts and fabrics from the production of global clothing brands illegally end up in Cambodia in the open fire of kilns for brick production. The incineration of textile waste and production waste in the open fire contradicts both Cambodian laws and the self-imposed environmental and social standards of the companies. loud Greenpeace emissions would rise and workers would be exposed to highly toxic fumes. For years, experts in the brick distilleries have criticized child labour and debt bondage, which is referred to as modern slavery. 2. Many factory workers do not have enough money to eat nutritious food and are exposed to health risks due to poor eating habits. Often the meals consist only of rice and eggs, the meals are also often dirty, spoiled and poorly prepared. A worker says, "Since I'm poor, I don't care if what I eat is nutritious or not, as long as I can earn money to support my family."

Sri Lanka: Trade unions and labour rights organisations such as the Clean clothes campaign and Labour behind the Label, Maquila Solidarity Network, War on Want and Workers United have in one writing expressed their solidarity with the people of Sri Lanka. In the letter, they call on national governments, international financial institutions, private sector companies (including international brands and retailers who source clothing from Sri Lanka) and other stakeholders to support an emergency aid programme, medium- and long-term financial support and a democratic political solution to the crisis. Sri Lanka's clothing industry has been hit hard by the COVID-19 pandemic and the subsequent economic crisis. Millions of textile workers now live at subsistence levels and increasingly suffer from fluctuating incomes, unstable jobs and low savings. In a statement released late last month, the Joint Apparel Association forum (JAAF ) from "serious negative consequences" if policymakers continue to delay the comprehensive reforms needed to get the island state back on track. The crisis has led to widespread food, fuel and drug shortages, skyrocketing inflation.of 54%) and mass protests demanding the resignation of the President.