Femnet e.V.

11.07.2022: News from KW 27

Studies and Co.

ILO "Employment, wages and productivity trends in the Asian garment sector" (PDF): The study provides an overview of employment, wages and labour productivity in the Asian apparel industry in the period 2010-19. The sector still accounts for 55% of global textile and clothing exports and employs around 60 million workers. While the clothing industry has lost importance in China, Thailand and the Philippines, for example, due to economic diversification and modernization, it remains the most important economic factor in Cambodia and Bangladesh. Real wages have increased in most countries, although working conditions remain generally difficult, including long and intensive working hours, poor safety and health at work and violations of fundamental rights at work. Gender pay gaps persist across the Asian apparel sector. The data from the report show a positive relationship between labour productivity growth and wages in the sector, suggesting that investment in labour productivity can play an important role in raising wages.

ITUC CSI IGB "2022 ITUC Global Rights Index - The world’s worst countries for workers" (PDF): Among the ten worst countries for professionals are Bangladesh (p.27), Myanmar (p.34) and Turkey (p.36). 87% of all countries violated the right to strike, 79% violated the right to collective bargaining, 77% of workers took the right to freedom of association, 74% hindered the registration of trade unions, in 66% workers had no or limited access to the right, workers were arrested in 69 countries, in 50 countries workers experienced violence, 41% of countries restricted freedom of speech and assembly, in 13 countries trade unionists were murdered (including Bangladesh, India, Italy, Myanmar and the Philippines). A list of companies associated with labour rights violations includes: H&M (p.11).

Inkota & South wind Austria "Human Rights Due Diligence in Practice - How do companies fulfil their human rights responsibilities in the global supply chain of leather (goods) and footwear?" (PDF): Ten companies were interviewed for the report, five of which refused to provide information (e.g. Wortmann (Tamaris). Have participated in the survey Zalando, Otto, ABOUT YOU, Legero and Görtz. The report concludes that brands know far too little about the risks and grievances in the global leather goods supply chain. The measures taken so far by retailers and online retailers to remedy maladministration are insufficient. In the leather goods product group, due diligence obligations are taken even less seriously than in the case of clothing and textiles. Working conditions are characterised by disregard for labour rights, irresponsible use of chemicals and extremely low wages.

University of Nottingham Rights Lab "Fashioning a beautiful future? Supporting workers and addressing labour exploitation in Leicester’s textile and garment industry" (PDF): At the beginning of last year, we reported on exploitative conditions in the factories in Leicester (see News Update KW 2 '21). The linked report contains the results of a four-month research study in which textile workers were interviewed. 56% of workers do not receive a minimum wage. The experts have recommended that major retailers and government agencies focus on the following areas, among others, to improve the lives and working conditions of workers: Complaint mechanisms, trade union support, legal advice, access to local education (language support), close cooperation with employers.

TextileExchange "Material Change Insights 2021 June 2022 - The state of fiber and materials sourcing" (PDF): The Material change index (MCI) Tracks the progress of the garment sector towards more sustainable sourcing of materials, as well as focusing on global efforts such as the Sustainable Development Goals and the transition to a circular economy. This year, 292 companies were rated and received ratings from 28.4 to 87.2 out of 100 points. Among the leading companies are among others the textile alliance companies Adidas, C&A, H&M, PUMA and Tchibo.

Organic Cotton Accelerator "OCA Annual Report 2021" (PDF): In the 2020/21 season, 22,146 farmers OCA worked together and harvested 31,290 tonnes of cotton on 22,146 hectares of land. An income of €635 was generated per hectare. In addition, €1.7 million was paid as a premium to Indian farmers. OCA also reports on its 2030 strategy with the following concepts: Farmer resilience, availability of organic farming, robust social and environmental data at farm level and a collaborative sectoral approach. OCA is an implementation partner of Alliance Initiative Organic Cotton in India. In addition, 12,500 cotton producers receive GM-free seeds and support in the transition to organic farming, including through training on organic farming methods and decent working conditions, as part of the OCA Farm Programme. In return, the companies involved in the alliance initiative undertake to purchase fixed quantities of certified organic cotton or cotton in conversion for three years and to pay farmers a premium that is higher than the market price.

Cotton made in Africa & The Good Cashmere Standard "Aid by Trade Foundation - Annual Report 2021" (PDF): In 2021, 1 million farmers with CmiA They have worked together and harvested 690,000 tonnes of cotton on 1,705,000 hectares of land in ten countries. 600,000,000 textiles were CmiA The label was put on the market. The annual report also discusses transparency and digitalisation in the value chain and comments on challenges such as climate change.

News

Existing wages: The new campaign will start in two weeks #GoodClothesFairPay from Fashion revolution for living wages. The campaign aims to gather 1 million signatures across the EU to push for legislation requiring companies to conduct a livelihood due diligence in their supply chains. On the website there is also a interactive map, which in cooperation with WageIndicator created. It shows the average pay gap in selected countries associated with the fashion and textile industries and shows that workers in most regions do not earn a living wage. In the course of the campaign, further data will be collected and supplemented.

Countries of production

Pakistan: It's been 10 years since the factory fire. Ali Enterprises More than 250 garment workers have died, but the rights of garment and textile workers have barely evolved. There is still no security agreement that holds employers and international brands accountable for implementing basic security protocols and procedures. The new report of the Clean clothes campaign (PDF) highlights shortcomings in some of the most basic provisions on safety in garment production and highlights the urgent need to extend the international agreement ACCORD.

Tunisia: On June 22, the IndustriALL-Member organisation General Federation for Textile Clothing, Leather and Shoes (FGTHCC-UGTT) one Demonstration in front of the Ministry of Social Affairs in Tunis to call on the government to raise wages under a 2021 agreement. The Tunisian government is delaying the implementation of the agreement for unclear reasons.

India: At the Collapse of a blanket in a clothing factory in Chembur, Mumbai One worker was killed and 11 other workers were injured.

Cambodia: In the case of one Accident of a truck manned by more than 50 textile workers injured 26 women and one man. The transport of workers in open trucks to and from factories is not uncommon in Cambodia. On March 30, about 20 garment workers were injured when their truck in the southeastern province Svay Rieng collided with a car. The Ministry of Labour announced that the minimum wage negotiations for textiles, clothing and footwear for 2023 will start in July of this year.. Trade unions demand a minimum wage of $204-214 . However, this wage would still be below the cost of living of the workers, which amounts to $250-300.