18.04.2023: News from KW 15

STUDIES AND CO.

Accountability reseach center "Local Voices, Global Action: Transnational Organizing in Apparel Supply Chains" (PDF): The working paper reports on labour rights advocates in the Global South building social movements, advocating for national reforms, and promoting new forms of accountability in the apparel industry. In particular, it examines how the Bangladesh Center for Worker Solidarity (BCWS) and this Cambodian Center for Alliance of Labor and Human Rights (CENTRALhave each played a crucial role in promoting new agreements and monitoring their implementation. It will be discussed how Kalpona Akter (BCWS) and Tola Moeun (CENTRAL) Worked with independent unions to build grassroots campaigns that often preceded or inspired international campaigns. The balance between this international lobbying and the Organisation for National Political Reforms is a strategy that is all the more necessary given the shrinking civic space in Bangladesh and Cambodia.

STAND.earth "Fossil-Free Fashion Scorecard 2023" (PDF): The report assesses the insufficient efforts of 43 apparel and footwear companies to eliminate fossil fuels from production, materials and shipping. The 2023 Fossil-Free Fashion Scorecard shows that fashion companies are not doing enough to follow up on their climate commitments to the much-needed extent. Among other things, the textile alliance companies were examined H&M (B-), Puma (C+), Adidas (C-), Hugo Boss (D) and Primark (D). Two thirds of the 43 companies assessed received an overall score in the range F or D (D- to D+). One third of the companies assessed received an overall score in the C range (C- to C+). Only one company (H&M) received a grade of B-. No company received grade A, although the 55% emission reduction target is only seven years away (2030). Only five stamps (ASICS, PUMA, Allbirds, Kering, H&M) have committed themselves to converting all or part of their production to clean energy.

UN Climate Change & CDP "Fashion Industry Charter for Climate Action - Progress Report 2023": The report looks at how fashion charter companies are meeting their climate commitments based on the reporting of the past three years and highlights the urgency of action needed to reduce the industry's enormous carbon footprint. Charter members are expected to participate annually through the non-profit organization. CDP report on their progress towards achieving intermediate and long-term targets. According to the report, it has 10 charter signatories on the A-list of the CDP We have achieved what proves to be a real leader in the industry. The data of the CDP However, only 45% of the Charter's active signatories currently meet the public climate targets required to keep global warming below 1.5°C.

NEWS

EU Supply Chain Act: The climate balance of many large companies is disastrous and drives the climate crisis ever further. Nevertheless, the climate obligations in the current draft of the EU Supply Chain Act are quite weak. In order for this to change, calls for a broad civil society alliance of more than 220 NGOs and individuals - before the votes in the landmark Legal Affairs Committee of the European Parliament - to introduce an EU supply chain law with strong climate obligations for companies (Statement from Justice is Everybody's Business). One survey from Justice is Everybody's Business It also found that nearly three quarters (74%) of Europeans support an EU law that would require all companies to reduce their greenhouse gas emissions to limit global warming to 1.5 degrees. On April 11, more than 20 leading companies and networks also released a joint explanationthe adaptation of the EU Directive on Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence (CSDDD) to international standards; UN Guiding Principles and the OECD Guidelines for multinational companies. The group comes from a number of countries and sectors and includes: Aldi, IKEA, asos, bestseller and others.

PRODUCTION COUNTRIES

Bangladesh: 1. Freedom of the press: Amnesty International Criticizes in a press release the increasing intimidation of the largest daily newspaper in Bangladesh, Prothom Alo. The Prime Minister of Bangladesh, Sheikh Hasina, referred to Prothom Alo In a speech in parliament as an "enemy of the Awami League, democracy and the Bangladeshi people", referring to an article published by the media body on the country's Independence Day, which dealt with the cost of living in Bangladesh. The journalist Shamsuzzaman ShamsThe author of the article was arrested under the Digital Security Act (DSA) He was indicted and later released on bail. Yamini Mishra, Regional Director for South Asia at Amnesty International says: "The application of the draconian Digital Security Act The attacks on journalists and some of the country's largest news publications point to a worrying trend of repression and a downward spiral of freedom of expression in Bangladesh. 2. Rana Plaza: On 6 April The Supreme Court granted the Rana Plaza owner, Sohel RanaRelease on bail after making a request to that effect. Shortly thereafter, the verdict was suspended. (until further hearing on 8 May) after the state filed a petition against the sentence, so that he will not be released from prison after all. 3. Brand on clothing market: A great Fire destroyed a popular clothing market in Dhaka, at least 3,000 shops, mostly made of sheet metal and wood, have been burned down. Several people were injured but no deaths were reported. Authorities are still trying to figure out the cause of the fire. The market is a popular destination for Western fashion from brands such as Tommy Hilfiger, which does not comply with export standards.

Vietnam: FashionUnited reported: This In an interlocutory judgment, the Amsterdam Court ruled that: G-Star Raw is liable for the damage suffered by a Vietnamese clothing factory. The Dutch denim brand had cancelled orders to the supplier due to difficulties during the pandemic. According to official court documents, the Vert Fashion Company LimitedIncome was lost because G-Star failed to comply with the agreements reached. The clothing supplier demanded G-Star Raw 16 million euros, which the court considers to be too broad. How much G-Star It has not yet been decided to pay to the Vietnamese factory. What is remarkable about the injunction is that the court has adopted the CSR policy of G-Star considered. The cancellation of orders meant that the factory in Vietnam had to close and the employees were subsequently laid off. The judge pointed out that this violates the principles of corporate social responsibility, which G-Star Respected according to their own statements.

Myanmar: A new one, EU-funded programme to support garment production in Myanmar has met with criticism from workers' rights advocatesThey claim that it legitimizes the military regime without benefiting the workers. The European Chamber of Commerce (Myanmar) and the German-based SEQUA-Group are planning the implementation of the project called "MADE in Myanmar" (Multi-Stakeholder Alliance for Decent Employment in the Myanmar Apparel Industry), following a four-year implementation plan financed by the EU with €3 million and additional contributions from various clothing brands. Khaing Zar Aung, President of the Industrial Workers' Federation of Myanmar (IMFM)The project not only gives legitimacy to the military council within the International Labour Organization (ILO), but also helps disguise labour rights violations. In a bombing of the city of Kant Balu on April 11, about 100 people were killed by the militaryincluding children and pregnant women.

Pakistan: After a major fire in a clothing factory in the South Pakistani port city Karachi Four firefighters died and 13 others were injured.. The cause of the fire, which broke out in the factory and eventually brought it down, was not immediately known, according to the police. The fire brigade had almost extinguished the fire when the collapse followed. The unions Zehra published after the collapse photos of products for the German market (named trademarks: Usman & Son (produced forAuchan, Dunnes store, & Hulampton). In a fire in a shoe factory at the end of March, seven people were injured.. In a mass panic on the site of a factory in Karachi At least 11 people have died (Among the victims are mainly women and children), several others were injured. The owner of the clothing factory had organized a camp for the distribution of food rations to his factory workers, as is customary every year during Ramadan. However, the owner had failed to inform the local police station about the event, although the government ordered that the organizers of such events must first inform the local police station so that precautions can be taken.

Otto reports Sales slump after the end of the e-commerce boom : Financial year 22/23, which was closed at the end of February, was recorded by the company operating in Germany. Otto-individual company in its own business with a turnover of around EUR 4.5 billion. Compared to the previous year, with EUR 5.1 billion, this corresponds to a slump of almost 12%.