23.09.2022: News from KW 38

Studies and Co.

INKOTA "Employment and working conditions in Bangladesh's leather industry - results of a survey of tanners": The new study of INKOTA and the Bangladesh Labour Foundation (BLF) is an extensive research in the tannery center Savar 120 workers from 26 tanneries were interviewed. This industrial area has been redeveloped due to severe environmental and health impacts in Hazaribagh. With the aim of meeting international environmental standards, the government announced the relocation, promising better living and working conditions. The survey shows that 111 of the 120 workers surveyed are employed on a fixed-term or no-contract basis. A majority of 75% of respondents work without adequate protective equipment and 79% are not trained in how to use chemicals safely. A large number of respondents suffer from health problems: 13% say they suffer from shortness of breath, 28% from skin diseases, 32% from stomach problems and 63% from headaches. At the same time, workers receive only an income below the minimum. The national minimum wage for tannery work is 13,500 Taka, the equivalent of about 143 euros, per month. More than half (56%) of respondents say they are paid below this minimum.

Public eye "Dark patterns: When web design manipulates us": A joint research of Fédération romande des consommateurs (FRC) with Public eyeshows how strongly consumers are exposed to so-called "dark patterns" when shopping online in fashion (e.g. discount codes with a short term, pop-ups with "special offers", enticement through additional purchases by e.g. "free items", "free delivery from..." etc.). All 15 shops examined (e.g. About you, Asos, H&M, Zalando and Zara) such manipulative design elements have been found to induce more purchases and the disclosure of personal data. However, the differences between the platforms are significant. The infamous top position in the ranking is taken by the fast-fashion giant Shein one – with 18 of the 20 dark patterns examined. Public eye calls for a clear ban on dark patterns from politics.

Re:Structure Lab "Social Auditing and Ethical Certification": Research has shown that the effectiveness of social audits and ethical certification schemes in detecting, combating and preventing forced labour remains deficient. Nevertheless, companies still use these private tools to fulfil their obligations under due diligence and transparency laws. The short report therefore examines: How can social auditing and certification be adequately regulated or reformed to play a role in the abolition of forced labour? What opportunities are there to reinvest the costs of creating and operating these mechanisms into more effective, worker-oriented solutions? The report stresses that auditors and certifiers who mislead consumers and policy makers about working practices and working conditions must be held liable. At the same time pleads Re:Structure Lab to ensure that the resources spent on audits and certifications should be channelled into more effective, employee-led and government-led solutions.

News

Forced labour: The European Commission has its Plans for a European ban on products made with forced labour, published. The proposal applies to all products, i.e. those in the EU products manufactured for domestic consumption and export, as well as imported goods, without targeting specific companies or sectors. The proposal must now be made by European Parliament and of Council of the European Union be discussed and adopted before it can enter into force. It will apply 24 months after its entry into force. The European Coalition for Corporate Justice (ECCJ) Criticises the following weaknesses: no appeals for victims; The burden of investigation and proof lies with the EU authorities, not with companies; weak obligation to map and disclose the supply chain.

Uighurs:

  1. Independent UN experts supported the recently published Evaluation of the UN Human Rights Office on the allegations of abuse in Xinjiang and stressed the conclusion of the evaluation that "the extent of arbitrary and discriminatory detention of members of the Uighurs and other predominantly Muslim minorities ... may constitute international crimes, in particular crimes against humanity. They also noted the findings of the report that there are credible allegations of torture or ill-treatment patterns, including forced medical treatment and adverse detention conditions, as well as incidents of sexual and gender-based violence, including invasive gynecological examinations, and indications of forced enforcement of family planning and birth control measures..
  2. There are indications that the momentum of the global textile industry is changing due to the entry into force of the US ban on cotton from the region. Xinjiang changed. This is because international brands are able to offer the full and effective Prohibition of in Xinjiang monitor and implement cotton produced using the latest technologies such as blockchain and artificial intelligence (AI). An industry expert told Fibre2Fashion: "The U.S. authorities have complete information on the genes in Xinjiang produced cotton. The technology has made it easier to track the gene across the entire value chain." He said when an exporter buys yarn from any country and the raw material, i.e. the cotton from a particular batch of yarn, comes from the region. Xinjiang The original gene is easily traceable. China's share of total U.S. clothing imports fell from 25% to 21% in the first half of '22.

Countries of production

Myanmar: There is an ongoing debate about whether companies can continue to operate in Myanmar while adhering to international standards and guidelines for responsible conduct. The Ethical trading initiative (ETI(Therefore, there was a independent, evidence-based assessment of the context of human rights and responsible business conduct in Myanmar commissioned. The report provides credible evidence of forced labour and exploitation (long working hours, low wages, unpaid overtime and harassment). In addition, workers are unable to exercise their right to freedom of association (301 trade unionists were imprisoned, 55 were killed). There are also cases of sexual violence and reports of child labour. On the basis of these conclusions, ETI Businesses are urged to review their presence in Myanmar. If companies choose to stay, they must respect the principles of internationally recognized human rights. This includes the elements of the ETI-Comply as much as possible with the basic code in all suppliers and explain transparently how they do so, including the measures they have taken to ensure continued compliance with these standards. If companies decide to leave Myanmar, they must do so responsibly and in consultation with the trade unions. The impact of the withdrawal from Myanmar on workers and their families must be a clear focus of this consultation. Following the publication of the report, the PRIMARK a responsible withdrawal from Mynamar: Against this background, we see our only way to work towards a responsible withdrawal from the country.

Bangladesh: Under the leadership of National Garment Workers Federation (NGWF) have Workers in the garment industry urged the government to immediately set up a wage commission to set a new minimum wage in view of rising food prices and the high cost of living (The minimum wage was last raised four years ago and is 8,000 Taka). Already In June, it was announced by a member of the government that such a commission would soon be formed.. The Minister of Commerce also Tipu Munshi said recently that the demand of employees in the clothing industry for a wage increase is only logical in view of the rising commodity prices and Supported the call for a wage commission. The unions Garments Sramik front At the end of August, a demonstration was held in Dhaka and demanded 24,000 Tk as the lowest monthly wage for clothing workers. Kalpona nude, Director of the Bangladesh Centre for Workers Solidarity (BCWS) demanded during a discussion at an event Centre for Policy Dialogue (CPD) one living wage for workers of at least 32,000 to 40,000 Tk. This CPD He also conducted a survey and found that a clothing worker received an average of 11,993 Tk (excluding overtime) in March '22 (currently about €119).

Cambodia: After months of negotiations between trade unions, the government and the owners of clothing factories, the Cambodia raises minimum wage to $200 per month (Increased by $6). The unions had demanded a minimum wage of $215, while employers in the factories had proposed maintaining the minimum wage of $194. The government had raised the minimum wage from $192 to $194 a month earlier this year (see news update of week 38 in '21). The wage increase will come into effect in January '23. At the beginning of the month reported IndustriALL from Police Intimidation Attempts Against Several Trade Unions That Launched a Campaign to Demand a Minimum Wage of $215.