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News - The Partnership for Sustainable Textiles (Textiles Partnership)

Ten years of the Textile Alliance: A critical consideration of advantages and disadvantages

The Textile Alliance celebrated its tenth anniversary on 28 November 2024 with a high-level event at the Federal Ministry for Economic Cooperation and Development (BMZ). In addition to Minister Svenja Schulze, FEMNET CEO Dr. Gisela Burckhardt also participated in the panel discussion and contributed key points from a civil society perspective. Another highlight of the event was the signing of a Memorandum of Understanding.

Since its foundation in 2014, the Textile Alliance has pursued the goal of sustainably improving the social, ecological and economic conditions in textile production. Various actors such as companies, trade unions, standard organizations, non-governmental organizations (NGOs) and government agencies work together. However, a key issue from a civil society perspective remains: What is the balance after a decade?

A mixed balance sheet: Successes and challenges

After ten years, the textile alliance shows both successes and clear challenges. On the positive side are the platform for dialogue, the role model in terms of legal requirements and increased transparency. At the same time, unequal distribution of resources and insufficient involvement of rightholders from the producing countries are identified as weaknesses. The memorandum of understanding "Strengthening local trade unions and local NGOs as legitimate representations of women rights holders – Because together we achieve more!" underlines the central role of trade unions and NGOs in producing countries. It shows how cooperation can make supply chains fairer, more transparent and more resilient, with better working conditions, more environmental protection and ambitious due diligence.

Advantages of the Textile Alliance

1. Regular exchange and increased insight The Textile Alliance provides a valuable platform for exchange between companies, NGOs and state actors such as the BMZ. This dialogue provides NGOs with in-depth insights into supply chain challenges. At the same time, NGOs are perceived by companies as competent partners, especially because of their ties to local trade unions and organisations.
2. Pioneering role in legal requirements The alliance has taken a pioneering role by developing criteria and key performance indicators (KPIs). Among other things, these served as the basis for the Green Button and the Supply Chain Due Diligence Act (LkSG). These standards promote sustainability criteria beyond statutory minimum requirements.

3. Increased transparency and focus topics The textile alliance motivated companies to create transparency in their supply chains. From 2025, companies will also have to disclose their Tier 2 suppliers on the Open Supply Hub platform. This transparency makes it easier to identify and address problems at an early stage. In addition, the alliance is now focusing on specific topics, backed by KPIs, which companies have to report on their implementation.

Disadvantages of the Textile Alliance

1. Low involvement of rights holders from producing countries The involvement of local organizations from the Global South remains insufficient. Often there is a lack of financial resources for the local partners, which means that their participation often remains pro forma and lacks real say.
2. Low impact for workers Despite ten years of work, the working and environmental conditions in the producing countries have hardly improved.
3. Unequal distribution of resources The unequal distribution of resources between brands, trade associations and NGOs leads to an imbalance of power. Companies often have a greater influence on decision-making processes, which weakens the position of civil society actors.
4. Loss of the Beyond Compliance approach Originally, the Textile Alliance took an approach that goes beyond legal requirements. However, since the entry into force of the LkSG, companies have increasingly focused on meeting the minimum legal requirements and are less involved in other areas, such as the payment of living wages.
5. Perception of NGOs Some companies see NGOs as watchdogs rather than constructive partners. This perception makes dialogue more difficult and increases tensions, which can put a strain on cooperation.
6. Small-scale and questionable impact of projects Many projects of the Textile Alliance are small-scale and their impact on the ground often remains unclear. The question arises whether these projects can bring about substantial, systemic changes.

Conclusion: From Letters of Intent to Measurable Progress

It is time to move from declarations of intent and structural discussions to concrete measurable progress. Only in this way can the Textile Alliance ensure that the social and environmental goals set in the supply chains are actually achieved. The guiding principle ‘Together we achieve more’ must be underpinned by tangible results, as underlined by civil society in its joint statement on the anniversary.